First nights sleep at ‘14’ camp, woke up a few times with v.dry mouth/ tongue (similar to a heavy night on the beers). Still drank 1 litre of water during the night meaning two pee bottle actions. A relaxed start to the day, breakfast at 9.30am was eggy toast with bacon washed down with multiple hot drinks – sadly no coffee for the clients, guide privilege only.
At around 11am we descended to our cache to bring back to camp (‘ a back carry’). The weather continues to be unpredictable, one moment scorching the next v cold. Overall though the weather has been good, no ‘flash freezing’ or sustained snow blizzards yet. When we returned to camp we practiced some fixed lines drills and moving past running belays. Most of us mastered the ‘magic clip’ where you simultaneously unclip and clip back in without clipping out of the protection – all good fun.The team generally seem to be doing well. Dale has a stomach infection and Drew has a cold/flu but everyone else seems fine. Found out today we can use the Sat phone. Andrew called his girlfriend, I have decided I will wait a few more days. Tomorrow and the next day will be early starts as we move to high camp. We should then move over Denali pass to 18,200 camp on the North Side before attempting a summit bid then desdcending the N. Side which sounds interesting (river crossings, bear dodging, untracked glaciers and knife edge ridge descents). Still the next 4/5 days should make or break us then it’s all downhill to home!!
At around 11am we descended to our cache to bring back to camp (‘ a back carry’). The weather continues to be unpredictable, one moment scorching the next v cold. Overall though the weather has been good, no ‘flash freezing’ or sustained snow blizzards yet. When we returned to camp we practiced some fixed lines drills and moving past running belays. Most of us mastered the ‘magic clip’ where you simultaneously unclip and clip back in without clipping out of the protection – all good fun.The team generally seem to be doing well. Dale has a stomach infection and Drew has a cold/flu but everyone else seems fine. Found out today we can use the Sat phone. Andrew called his girlfriend, I have decided I will wait a few more days. Tomorrow and the next day will be early starts as we move to high camp. We should then move over Denali pass to 18,200 camp on the North Side before attempting a summit bid then desdcending the N. Side which sounds interesting (river crossings, bear dodging, untracked glaciers and knife edge ridge descents). Still the next 4/5 days should make or break us then it’s all downhill to home!!
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